june 9, 2023
Have not documented my surfing journey at all on here, but today is worth a post because I turned on my first large green wave!! We’re talking 1.2-1.5m (~4-5 ft) in the forecast, actually feeling the drop, successfully turning right onto the face, riding to a graceful and controlled dismount.
cute Surfline screenshot of today’s conditions
Today felt like a breakthrough because other ones were smaller, slower…still count they just felt less…controlled, almost as if they were by luck. Today I felt in control and more importantly, relaxed and happy.
edit: while publishing I noticed Squarespace had this lightening bolt icon and lo and behold they now have AI generated text. it’s pretty accurate